I had to start this blogpost on this note from Andhadhun, the recent hit movie which is making news.
– What is life? A character asks in the movie.
– It all depends on the liver – he answers himself.
The liver here may or may not have anything to do with Mete or liver that we eat but liver is something which we all enjoy. It’s the season of Kali Pujo and Mutton or Mangsho, that too sacrifice or Bolir Mangsho is a must have. My neighbour in Chandannagore used to do Kali pujo at home. Their grandson was my best friend. Every year on Kali Pujo, at night we used to wait eagerly for the boli or the sacrifice to happen. As kids, obviously we were not allowed to watch the process of sacrifice but in later years, we got the permit.
I am yet to find out the reason why the mutton tasted so delicious when we used to have this next day for lunch. The entire neighborhood would be invited for the meal and that was my first experience of community eating. It did not end there. Ma used to carry a tiffin carrier (Tiffin carrier used to be an integral part of the moms while we were growing up and ask them about it – they will give you a 100 utilities for those stacked up steel boxes) and pack the mangsho for later consumption too.
The daily bhog at Kalighat can give any premium bengali fine dining place a run for its money. There, the sacrificial mutton or the mangsho needs a special mention. It is always cooked in a niramish way and the taste is simply superior. When it’s niramish, unlike most of the other parts of the country, onion and garlic is not used in the cooking. This Kumro meter chorchori is also without onion and garlic and the recipe is tracked down from Madhushree’s Kakima’s (aunt’s) hometown in Coochbehar, where this recipe is made using the sacrificial goat meat liver during kali pujo.
Mutton liver has a unique texture. It has a bite, yet if cooked right, almost melts in the mouth. When small nuggets of mutton liver is cooked in spices with a soft mushy pumpkin, the difference in the texture creates a very interesting combination. Since onions and garlic are not used, there is a hint of heeng (asafoetida) coupled with a variety of tones that you get from the use of panch phoron. The ultimate experience is sublime. Recommended accompanist is steamed rice and the alternate soft and hard textures of the ingredients is thoroughly enjoyable. Try this Kumro Meter Chorchori this season and let us know how you liked it.
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